Full disclosure: I grew up in a community near Lunenburg, so I was familiar with the town. With its proximity to my home in Halifax, indie appeal*, and my desire to see at least three things there, I thought Lunenburg was a terrific candidate for my first official Operation Hometown Traveler trip of Summer 2012.
In wanting to travel in my hometown and province like I do when I’m “away,” I did all same preparation: solicit Facebook and Twitter friends for suggestions, consult local tourism sites, Google the heck out of things, and hit the road.
Most everything you’ll want to see and do in Lunenburg is located in the “Old Town” area. As “the best surviving example of a planned British colonial settlement in North America,” Old Town Lunenburg received a UNESCO World Heritage designation in 1995. Since that time, the town has done a really excellent job of preserving the qualities that warranted the designation and using them to revitalize the town in delightful ways. An historic town that’s also a working fishing community, Lunenburg is home to world-class cuisine, artisans and galleries, terrific independent stores, and a brand-new distillery.
Brightly-coloured shops on King Street, nicknamed the ‘UNESCO Fresco’
I arrived just outside of the Old Town area (by Lunenburg Foundry, for locals) and noticed a piece of concrete. It is, in fact, a piece of the Berlin Wall. All I’ve been able to discover is Lunenburg’s deep German roots garnered it a piece of the historic wall. I’ve since learned there are other pieces in Nova Scotia. I will find all of them! [Update: I found all of them!]
Harbour view, golf course peril
As suggested by several folks, I drove up to the golf course for a panoramic view of the harbour and Old Town. It’s a narrow lane up a steep hill, with a sign noting there’s a tee on one side and a green on the other. At that point, I heard the Avis car rental guy replay his departure speech in my head, “We look for golf ball-sized dents and scratches longer than a finger.” Harrowing words, but what a view!
Snacks, Shops, and a Steve from my past
My first stop was a very necessary coffee at Laughing Whale (recommended by my friend Rhia). Delicious organic fair trade coffee, plus delicious baked goods to provide fuel for the busy day ahead.
Ready to go, the first shop that caught my eye was Luvly, a store featuring independent Canadian designers. It was my good luck there was a 2-for-1 sale, and I got a great deal on some new things for summer. I also had a great chat with the super-friendly staff, who made the visit all the better.
My next stop was one I had been intending to make for a while. An old, old, old, old friend of mine has an art supply store, called Steve’s Art Supply, so I stopped in for a catch-up and a chat. Do not let his stern expression throw you off, he’s as funny as they get. Steve shares space with Power House Art, featuring contemporary art, including this painting that you can buy for your own home (sorry, Steve not included).
Lunch on a patio – lingering encouraged
After a couple of hours of hill-climbing, I was starving, so I sought out the Salt Shaker Deli, where I’ve wanted to eat since it opened – it was also recommended by guest poster Vanessa, and justifiably so. It’s run by a couple who also own Fleur de Sel, one of my favourite fine-dining establishments in Nova Scotia, and features a menu of sandwiches, pasta, and pizzas in many delicious combinations.
Sitting on their sun-soaked patio, I could have happily spent the afternoon working my way through the menu. After some deliberation, I enjoyed a Bahn Mi sandwich and met my new favourite condiment, sriracha mayo. It was divine, and it required a lot of restraint to not devour it in one bite, python-style. It was a perfect day for a patio, and I’m pleased to report my server encouraged lingering. They may not get me to leave next time.
Divine Dots & Loops
@SueOz on Twitter recommended Dots & Loops, and she gets bonus points for her A+ recommendation. The space is bright and airy, and is home to a well-chosen collection of clothing, handmade jewelry, paper crafts, cards, and tons more. I chatted with one of the owners and I hope my enthusiasm for her shop was fun for her, and not terrifying. I love Dots & Loops and can’t wait to see what fun things I’ll find on my next visit. Fact: I bought a super-soft t-shirt with narwhals on it and I’m wearing it as I write.
A spirited trip to Ironworks
I had been looking forward to my next stop, Ironworks Distillery for a long time (also recommended by Vanessa). It has the fun, historic vibe of being located in a blacksmith’s shop, with the appeal of sampling of finely-crafted spirits in the afternoon. The friendly staff love their product and are happy to describe their products in exquisite detail.
I took my sweet time getting to know their apple vodka (so many apples, it’s gotta be a fruit serving), then, cranberry, raspberry, and blueberry liqueurs. All of them are made using Nova Scotian berries, and I couldn’t resist taking home a bottle of their cranberry liqueur. I also “met” the still, named “Brigitte,” who was resting – it was the weekend – so I definitely have to go back to see her in action.
Going to work on the Bluenose II restoration
Giant sea creatures lurk overhead
When you’re walking through Old Town Lunenburg, be sure to look up. That way, you can’t miss Lunenburg’s brightly-coloured buildings and charming signage. Every light post features giant-sized sea creatures representing the many species whose harvesting has supported the town and surrounding area for centuries.
Nautical style + green lifestyle
Lunenburg successfully employs the argument I use for living in a city. The town is compact and easy to navigate, plus you can walk everywhere. These qualities make it an ideal destination for a day trip or weekend adventure. I’m already thinking about a return trip, having only scratched the surface of what visitors can do in town.*If you think I may be wrong, check out this video produced by the Lunenburg Board of Trade, highlighting the lifestyle appeal of Lunenburg, Live Well in Lunenburg.
See Lunenburg for yourself:
Laughing Whale Coffee: 263 Lincoln Street
Luvly: 230 Lincoln Street
Steve’s Art Supply and Power House Art: 129 Lincoln Street
Salt Shaker Deli: 124 Montague Street
Fleur de Sel: 52 Montague Street
Dots & Loops: 183 Lincoln Street
Ironworks Distillery: The Blacksmith’s Shop, 2 Kempt Street
Bluenose II Restoration: Lunenburg Shipyard, Burma Road (until July 2012)
Wind Bag Company of Nova Scotia: 35 Falkland Street
I am from Lunenburg and can’t help but pick up the cranberry liqueur when I go down for a visit. Try it with cherry coke if you want a really sweet drink as a treat – it will blow your mind!
That’s a great suggestion. I’m on it!
Fabulous blog post. A glimpse of my hats even made it into the Luvly photo. Thanks for the great Lunenburg press. Anna
I was wondering if those were yours – I saw you (and your hats) in the Board of Trade video!
Great post! I’d like to suggest a day trip to Chester. Possible activities include: Graves Island, taking in the bizarre mingling of locals and rich elites during Race Week, eating delicious crab cakes at the gold course restaurant, taking in a local play, enjoying a cold beverage on the patio of the Rope Loft, and DEFINITELY enjoying a pear, brie and arugula sandwich on orange raisin bread at the Kiwi Cafe.
Do all of those things coincide? That’d be a stellar day trip!
Love the Kiwi cafe! Fantastic coffee and treats!
Lunenburg is fantastic, such great architecture, friendly people, great food and home of the Bluenose. What’s not to love. When I was there Ironworks was closed, but luckily my dad had some bottles of their vodka and liqueur at his cottage, loved the blueberry!
Their spirits are simply terrific, it was a long-overdue visit and they couldn’t have been more friendly and helpful!
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Love to read more about lively Lunenburg. And I remember the Salt Shaker Deli, it was the only place open when we arrived late one night a few years ago. Excellent food. (My daughters even have black, long-sleeved Salt Shaker Deli t-shirts.)
Those were adorable, I was thinking about getting an adult-sized one for me. I love Lunenburg, there’s so much to do!
Along with the fine dining, fascinating architecture, tasteful shopping and glorious vistas, Lunenburg has about 20 artist-owned fine art and craft galleries, including ours, Laurie Swim’s Art Quilt Gallery of the Atlantic. The quality of the works one can find in Lunenburg is first rate. I hope you come back to write about this marvelous phenomenon.
Thanks for the suggestion!
great article! I can send this to my friends who question my desire to move to Lunenburg! My spouse and I went there in April and the local news did a little story on us… http://southshorenow.ca/archives/2012/050912/news/Making_the_move.html.php
Great article – I hope you folks find your way here soon!
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