Before going to Morocco, I had very exotic ideas about palmeries. Lush valleys full of palm trees among rocky mountains and desert-like terrain. As luck would have it, our guide had planned for a walking tour in a palmery along the Oued Todra (Todra River), just outside of Tinerhir.
Our guide Abdul, took us through the palmery at a leisurely pace, stopping to answer questions in great detail or point out interesting features. As we walked along the narrow paths framing the water being channeled through plots of land, we got to see daily life in the palmery. Subsistence agriculture, seasonal harvesting. The pomegranates had just finished, a few overripe ones were left behind. We met a widow working to feed her children and harvest a little extra food to sell. She stopped working briefly to joke with us and offer me a job as a farm worker for 100 dh a day (approximately CAD/USD $11), which seemed more than fair, and overly generous considering the circumstances.
When looking out at the palmery from the surrounding mountains, you see clusters of communities dotting the perimeter, punctuated with the minarets of mosques, some clearly in better condition than others.